It is the ocean here that is the great attraction. In 1995, the Mafia Island Marine Park was formed to protect the archipelago’s reefs. Within Chole Bay, the shallow reefs are perfect for snorkeling or learning to dive. Outside the bay, its entrance is guarded by a long coral wall, attracting more experienced divers. Here are more than 50 kinds of coral, including giant table corals, huge stands of blue-tipped stag horn corals, and more than 400 species of fish.

This is one of Tanzania’s best areas for diving. You’ll always see something exciting, from rainbow-coloured clownfish to octopus, rays and the odd gigantic grouper or large potato cod. Sharks and dolphins are found in the deeper waters, and at night turtles haul themselves onto remote beaches to nest. Note that due to local winds and currents, dive sites outside the bay are often only safely accessible from about mid-September to the end of February.

When you drive across Mafia to transfer to any of the lodges on the east coast, or to Chole Island, you will go through the Marine Park entrance gate on the main road, and you will have to pay daily fees in advance, depending on the size of your party and the length of your stay. Unfortunately, Tanzania Adventures cannot pay these fees in advance, and none of the local lodges do so on your behalf, so do be prepared. Happily they take credit cards. The current fee is $23.60 or the equivalent in Tanzanian shillings. You will need to show your receipt and ticket every time you pass through the gate on this trans-island road.